Self reliance is a fundamental principle of mountaineering. By participating we accept this and take responsibility for the decisions we make. These Conditions Reports are intended to help you make good decisions. They do not remove the need for you to make your own judgements when out in the hills.

Friday, 26 June 2015


Earlier this week we helped Fabiana and team to complete the National Three Peaks in 24 hours. This is a huge achievement and the team did a fantastic job. The walks are tough and you need to be quick on all three of them. The only recovery you have between them is sitting in a minibus for several hours!


On the way up Ben Nevis they came across someone having a medical emergency as well and they did everything they could to help him. The guys worked together very well and supported each other all the way. Well done team and thanks to Mark for looking after them through the whole thing.


Today Andy and John enjoyed the Aonach Eagach and went out to The Chancellor on the way. It stayed dry for them this morning but the rain came in later on and for the walk down.


It does seem like the weather has warmed up a bit at long last. It is still quite unsettled but the temperature is much more like it should be at this time of year.





Thursday, 25 June 2015


What a great day for an introduction to scrambling in the Cuillin on Skye. I was with Pete, Al, Justin and Tim who have done a good amount of scrambling but nothing with ropes before today. We went into Coire a'Basteir and up to the ridge where the mist was just starting to form and swirl around the peaks.


We went up Am Basteir first making fast progress up the steady scrambling, looking at securing each other without a rope. We got the rope out for the bad step and worked out how to use Italian Hitches to make it safe for everyone as we climbed down. The view of Sgurr nan Gillean appearing out of the clouds when we were on top was excellent.


Back down for a go at the West Ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean gave us the perfect opportunity to practice moving together with a rope for security, Alpine style. This is the perfect technique for the Teeth near the foot of the ridge. Higher up we just walked with the rope in our hands and went back to moving together at the top as we went through the window. We also went down the SE Ridge a very short way now I know how good it is!


Going back down the West Ridge gave us another great training opportunity, abseiling down the chimney at the bottom. By this time the rain had come in so we were grateful for dry rock on both climbs and we went down the coire underneath Pinnacle Ridge for the long walk back to Sligachan.






Tuesday, 23 June 2015


At last it seems like there is some green on the hills. Walking into Coire Laggan on Skye yesterday with Skylarks singing over head, flowers under or feet and green grass up to our knees it felt much more like spring (even though we are now in summer!). Jim, Aileen and I went up to climb Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, a tricky Munro with an involved route and several exposed steps at the head of Coire Laggan.


The clouds cleared and the sun cam out briefly to reveal several people out on various routes making the most of the dry weather. There was quite a cold wind though and it was another day for the yak wool shirt from Jottnar. The route up from Rotten Chimney is really quite airy - more exposed than I had given it credit for. I have been up twice this year now and was impressed by the situations both times. As part of the complete ridge traverse it is (just) another very exposed bit, but as a single day it stands out as quite a trip. Aileen and Jim did great and were happy enough without the rope in the dry grippy conditions.


Today we went for Sgurr nan Gillean by its SE Ridge. After so many years of exploring the Cuillin it was a surprise that I'd never been up this way, so it was a treat to go somewhere new. It is a long walk in from Sligachan and unfortunately the mist stayed down on the tops so we were climbing up into the gloom. There was no wind though and the very narrow crest at the top made up for the lack of view. It really is a fine ridge with solid rock making up entire sections of it.


We reversed the route and went all the way back around Coire Riabhach to Sligachan. After completing a traverse I have always descended the W Ridge and gone down Coire a'Basteir and I think this has been a good decision. It's a long way round by the SE Ridge and the path is really quite rough so it would be heavy going with post-traverse legs!